I imagined "antique" — food in the style of "the old country."
And that's what I got, even though my etymology was muddled. Though the origins of the word are unclear, today "Antioqueño" refers to the Colombian department of Antioquia, the northwestern region not far from Panamanian border, whose capital is Medellín.
At $5 each, the tamales Antioqueños cost much more than you'd pay on the street, but they're also half again as large and heavy. After I took one home and boiled it for 15-20 minutes (per the counterman's instructions), under the string-cinched leaf wrapper I found a thin layer of coarse masa surrounding peas, carrot, potato, and chunks of pork. Some were too big for a single bite, and one was still on the bone; it's fitting when you consider that La Boina Roja is a carniceria (meat market) and that a companion steakhouse sits next door.
I don't have a decent photo of the tamale. Content yourself with a look at this airy buñuelo (90 cents), a savory fritter of cornstarch and queso blanco, that kept me company between the market and the nearby 7 line station.
La Boina Roja Carniceria
80-18 37th Ave., Jackson Heights, Queens
718-639-1662
