Eating In Translation

Baoguette

(This venue is closed.) You won't find another banh mi like it in New York.

Taïm

First, choose your flavor of falafel.

Hundred Acres

(This venue is closed.) It's not the spicy, slightly greasy style beloved in New England, though it's tweaked with pickled jalapeños and aioli. Rather, this appetizer of fried Rhode Island squid ($9) is sourced from the Ocean State; the tender curls of calamari are surmounted by two disks of fried (and fully edible) Meyer lemon.

Hundred Acres
38 MacDougal St. (Prince-West Houston Sts.)
212-476-7400

The Yoghurt Place

(This venue is closed.) Pack this much gooey filling in a handheld pastry, and it might collapse of its own weight. This small Greek food shop sensibly plants its phyllo-covered custard pie (slice; $3) on a sturdy crust, then casually pushes the sugar-saturation limit with a light pour of lemon syrup.

The Yoghurt Place
71 Sullivan St. (Spring-Broome Sts.), Manhattan
212-219-3500
Also as Kesso Foods, at 77-20 21st Ave., East Elmhurst, Queens
718-777-5303

Garlic and shrimp...

...or shrimp with garlic (gambas al ajillo): Either way you look at this classic tapa, writes Boqueria, they're two more great tastes that go great together.

Too bad about the poor quality of the clip; it's the best I could find from 35 years ago. See also this crisper variation on the theme from a decade later.

Boqueria
171 Spring St. (Thompson St.-West Broadway)
212-343-4255
Also at 53 West 19th St. (Fifth-Sixth Aves.)
212-255-4160
www.BoqueriaNYC.com

108 Mini Café

(This venue is closed.) "Goat, chicken, fish" were the three lunchtime entrees on a recent visit to this tiny eatery. Though the maneuvers required to reach my seat resembled a tile-shifting game played with two-tops, my prize for solving the puzzle was the belly-filling Haitian chow shown here. Preceded by a green salad, a plate of stewed goat ($12) was filled out by a boiled potato and garnished with onion (and, as desired, the traditional Haitian spicy slaw, not shown here). The legume-studded rice was cooked in chicken stock and very moist, but extra goat gravy was available for the asking, too.

108 Mini Café
196 West 108th St. (Amsterdam-Columbus Aves.), Manhattan
212-662-0445

La Boina Roja Carniceria

I imagined "antique" — food in the style of "the old country."

Pique al Paso

Even under the onions, my bolon de verde ($3) wasn't particularly green.

Danku

(This venue is closed.) Look over that menu, then consider reaching for your MetroCard.

Los Paisas

Even the accompaniments are enticing.