Nanking salty duck ($6.75), to be precise. Served at room temperature, leaner than I'd expected, this appetizer didn't thrill our table at first, and so half remained when the entrees began to arrive. But we compulsively picked away until we polished it off; think of it as a choice plateful of holiday leftovers without the refrigerator burn.
Also at the table: quick stir-fried eels with leeks ($12.95), which seemed to be a Shanghai-style dish I've enjoyed several times under the name eel with yellow chives; shrimp stir-fried with egg and mushrooms (the last, swapped in for leeks; $9); salt and pepper dungeness crab (market price; about $18); and small mochi in rice wine sauce (normally $2.50 each; comped).
Bund Shanghai Restaurant
640 Jackson St. (Beckett-Kearny Sts.), San Francisco
415-982-0618