Even if, once I dug in, the soft chunks undercut the menu's promise of "curry fish mousse," even if at bottom the curry leaves kept company with a little broccoli. I found nothing close to fish custard in Phnom Penh or Siem Reap, Cambodia, though I'm very happy to have found the haw moek at Poodam's, in Astoria.
If you're fortunate enough to encounter a worthy ahmohk, savor it slowly — you never know when you'll find another.
Angkor Borei
3471 Mission St. (at 30th St.), San Francisco
415-550-8417
www.CambodianKitchen.com