Paper beats rock.
Or, pancetta beats monkfish. Against the run of play, in this roast entree the first was too assertive for the second; the other savory dishes would have benefited from more seasoning. Also from the restaurant week dinner menu (one small and one large plate; $30.09): mussels in chipotle broth (both mild and tiresome); stuffed clams (nice); braised short ribs (tender, to be sure) with baby carrots and pureed parsnips; and cinnamon-dusted ricotta doughnuts with lemon curd (well worth the wait and the $8 supplement).
Market is well-regarded for its use of seasonal ingredients; I'll hope to visit again in a sunnier season.
Market
249 Main St. (at Summer St.), Stamford, Connecticut
203-348-8000
www.MarketStamford.com
