Literally: While most of the batch ranged from creamy beige to softly rose, a few bordered on outright orange (no relation). According to Jimmy LaPrete of Shore Catch (below) — who with a co-worker made the long drive this morning from the Jersey shore to the Fulton Stall Market, for its opening day — the darker-hued shellfish are females. An article I uncovered that evening described the variants as pumpkin scallops; it also noted that prior to spawning in May and October, some female scallops (but not all) take on this color, which is "an indication of an abundance of food during their spawning period." They're perfectly safe.
Though some people insist that the darker-colored scallops are sweeter, says LaPrete, he maintains that there's no difference in flavor. Based on my small sample (two-thirds of a pound, at $14.95 per pound), I agree. I couldn't tell them apart, not raw, not pan-seared, though I wished I'd bought a full pound just to be sure.
Shore Catch
Barnegat, New Jersey
609-339-6380
At Fulton Stall Market, South St. between Fulton and Beekman streets
Friday and Saturday, 10:00-6:00