The "ice cream soda" flavor (330 ml.; 99 cents) smacks of sparkling rosewater. Also from the beverage case, Balsam (12 fl. oz.; $1.79) — its label bears a crescent moon that may signal a lack of alcohol (the market carries many halal products) or a lack of stimulants (sleep tight) — combines the round currant-like flavor of sorrel with a gingery biting finish. Three Rivers brand apricot chutney (280 g.; $2.99), from Pakistan, delivers a heavy dose of black pepper; despite the runny consistency, it's great on hot dogs.
Under its original name, 1 Stop Pharmacy & Food Mart, the store stocked garlic and lemon pickles, hot sauces, and chutneys on one range of shelves, while the "pain relief" and "stomach aid" sign hung just down the aisle. Recently I saw that the market had changed its signage indoors and out, but I gladly secured a chutney refill.
Deshi Bazar
71-17 Roosevelt Ave. (at 71st St.), Jackson Heights, Queens
718-899-8200
Closed Sunday