It's a Sicilian message.
If you insist on being literal, this plaque emblazons a welcome from the market across the flag of Sicily, but figuratively, it makes a simple appeal to authenticity. Perhaps that's why the muffuletta ($7.50) is their best-seller — it's rivaled only by the panelle, according to the counterman — even if Acquedolci is willing to stretch the sandwich's traditional circular boundaries and serve it on a hero (for a dollar more), since "that's what people are used to" in New York.
I asked for mine on focaccia, the closest thing available to the classic broad seeded loaf, and observed the application of the all-important olive salad as well as thin-sliced ham, salami, mortadella, provolone, and mozzarella. The housemade olive salad, though properly chunky, lacks the astringent bite of the version at Dive Bar, and the meats don't rival the depth of flavor at Cochon Butcher (which sets a very high bar), but taken as a whole, in anyone's hands it strikes a nice balance.
As for that Sicilian message, and that thing about the fishes, Acquedolci also prepares pasta con sarde. I'll call on it soon.
Acquedolci
181 Grand St. (Baxter-Mulberry Sts.)
212-219-8911
www.Acquedolci.biz
