Tentacles and tubers may seem an unlikely pairing.
It's my favorite example, however, of northern Italian surf-and-turf: warm octopus salad with potatoes, gaeta olives, and capers (shown; $9.50). Le tigelle Modenesi ($11), fresh-baked flat buns that you slice and stuff, Modena style, with prosciutto crudo di Parma, also appear among the appetizers but could serve as a filling stand-alone snack. (A late snack: Da Andrea is open only for dinner.)
Most of the pastas (about $12.50 each) are housemade. On a recent visit they proved hit-and-miss; one winner was squid ink tagliolini in a white wine sauce, entangled with cherry tomatoes and equally small, fresh clams. Previously I've also enjoyed veal and spinach ravioli with cream, mushrooms, and prosciutto, and artichoke ravioli with fresh tomato, thyme, and dry ricotta.
Da Andrea
35 West 13th St. (Fifth-Sixth Aves.)
212-367-1979
www.Biassanot.com
