A little overcooked, just the way it's meant to be.
During prime, late-afternoon shopping time at this bustling produce market, meat counter, and grocery, there's scarcely room to squeeze down the aisles. Fortunately, most of the sweets are stationed near the registers, including Dulceria Rodriguez concon of milk (10 oz.; $3). In Dominican cuisine, concon (cone-Cone) usually refers to the burned, crunchy, desirable rice from the bottom of the pan, but in this confection, the name (and the extra time on the stovetop) is devoted to dairy, yielding a caramelized fudge that's almost crunchy, in a fine-grained sort of way. There were many packages on hand of Dulceria Rodriguez's fudge, but it's telling that this was the last concon.
Previously: A squeezepop of Jaren brand tamarind ice (5 oz.; $1) had a pleasant sour flavor. Similar packages of coconut and raspberry ice cream were also available, but their litany of ingredients inclined me toward the ice, which listed only tamarind, sugar, and water.
Hamilton Food
1 Hamilton Pl. (at Broadway and 136th St.), Manhattan
212-926-8213
