Anselmo's calzone ($10) would be cumbersome if the pizzeria didn't score it across the middle. But pull it apart and you'll have two flattened cones — perhaps one for you, one for a friend — of stark white ricotta and mozzarella in a thin, chewy, coal-oven-charred crust. The little tub of red sauce is merely a distraction, and the sausage I added ($2) made no impression at all. Choosing from the customary roster of pizza toppings, perhaps you can do better.
Anselmo's
354 Van Brunt St. (at Sullivan St.), Red Hook, Brooklyn
718-488-7400
www.AnselmosPizza.com
Closed Monday