(This venue is closed.) There's the beef.
The core of the Italian beef sandwich, seldom seen outside the Windy City, is wet-roasted in a seasoned broth, then sliced very thin. This common riff (hero; $7) adds a giardiniera of pickled vegetables; others substitute sweet peppers or add provolone. That it's amply laden with beef, there's no dispute, and I happily ate my fill; next time I'll ask for additional giardiniera and more meat juices. But an erstwhile Chicagoan, who previously introduced me to a broth-dunked version of the sandwich in a Brooklyn home kitchen, later reported via the grapevine that it lacks some ineffable "Chicago flavor." Broad shoulders, it seems, can bear a more heavily seasoned broth, with extra garlic; I wouldn't mind myself.
On another occasion: At least in sandwich form, Crooked Tail's lasagna Bolognese (below; $5 on a roll, $6 on a hero) isn't the sturdy sort; its soft, deconstructed layers conform themselves best to the cushiest bread available. But give it big points for portability: It's surely the least awkward way to juggle pasta and a pilsner at the Canal Bar (under the same ownership) next door.
Crooked Tail Cafe
272 Third Ave. (at President St.), Gowanus, Brooklyn
718-852-1414
