(This venue is closed.) They serve slices.
Which is fine for a nosh but dear for a meal; compare the Fort Defiance muffuletta (above and below; $9) with a half-order from Central Grocery, in New Orleans, which reportedly served as its exemplar. That said, the bread in the Brooklyn sandwich is admirably dense yet springy, so it absorbs the marinade from the olive salad without falling to pieces. But thinking back to the Big Easy, I'd like more sesame seeds, more of a giardiniera sting in the salad, and, if not housemade charcuterie, perhaps a taller heap of cold cuts, too.
Fort Defiance
365 Van Brunt St. (at Dikeman St.), Red Hook, Brooklyn
347-453-6672
www.FortDefianceBrooklyn.com
