At the center of the meatloaf sandwich ($13) — like The Flying Pig's well-regarded burger, it's made with grass-fed beef from nearby Cabbage Hill Farm, under the same ownership as the restaurant — the meat is mounded rather high. It falls off near the edges, where the other ingredients hold sway. Below, bacon peers out coyly from beneath the brioche, while cheddar and, especially, a lubricative tomato relish remain hidden. But trust me, even a meatloaf fan who favors a crusty slab off the end (guilty) won't feel shortchanged.
Also shown below: more relish, the cranberry-orange kind, primping before a tumble with rustic chocolate toast ($8).
The Flying Pig on Lexington
251 Lexington Ave. (at Moore Ave.), Mount Kisco, New York
914-MOO-PIGS (914-666-7445)
www.FlyingPigDining.com
Open seven days, but on Sunday, only for brunch