(This venue is closed.) Close by the Manhattan Bridge overpass, Yi Mei is one of twin (unrelated) Fujianese eateries that serve your choice of four hot items, plus white rice and pale broth, for $3.50.
There's a bewildering (and unlabeled) display beside the window, waiting to be combined any number of ways; a survey of the small dining room found no two plates that looked anything alike. My foursome included a savory donut, sweet-sauced eggplant, a fry-up of egg and bitter melon, and yellow slices of squash coupled with off-white strips — after a bite, I understood the counterwoman's gesture, tapping the inside of her wrist — of tendon.
Yi Mei Gourmet Food
51 Division St. (near Market St.), Manhattan
212-925-1921
