(This venue is closed.) It's edgy, in an 1888 way. In the same year that Henry Schumacher's inn was renamed Niederstein's, August Bauer developed his renowned mustard recipes. This one (8 oz.; $1.99) gets its sharp flavor from the addition of horseradish.
Morscher's Pork Store
58-44 Catalpa Ave. (Woodward-Onderdonk Aves.), Ridgewood, Queens
718-821-1040
www.MorschersPorkStore.com