A foursome of "classic beef" meatballs ($7) easily muscled aside a lonely stick of focaccia. But when it's hero time, will they be ballsy, er, beefy enough to pull their weight? That spicy meat sauce, soaking into a baguette, may be the decider; a return visit will tell.
The Meatball Shop
84 Stanton St. (Allen-Orchard Sts.)
212-982-8895
www.TheMeatballShop.com
