The purplish bracts, modified leaves that surround and protect the banana inflorescence, are too stiff to blossom gracefully. Once they've been peeled away from a harvested banana flower, however, the paler inner bracts and the banana "heart" can be steamed and introduced to dishes such as Cambodian sour soup and this Thai banana flower salad (95 baht) bolstered by chicken and shrimp. I didn't find the flavors of tamarind, chilies, and coconut cream quite as resplendent as did the late R.W. Apple several years ago, but in fairness this was my second lunch, immediately preceded by some fatiguing reconnaissance on foot. Also shown: haw moek (100 baht).
Chote Chitr
146 Prang Pu Thorn, Th. Tanao, Bangkok
02-221-4082
www.ChoteChitr.ch