(This venue is closed.) In search of ancient amaranth.
Very possibly you've enjoyed amaranth already; under the West Indian name callaloo, its leaves are a key ingredient in a dish of the same name. Some 60 amaranth species are known worldwide, and its grainlike seeds — high in protein, and gluten-free — have long been harvested in Asia, Africa, and the Americas.
Five hundred years ago, asserted a 1977 article in Science magazine, amaranth was not only a staple of the Aztec diet but also "an integral part of their religious rites. The Aztecs made idols out of a paste mixed with the blood of the human sacrifice victims. During the religious festivals, the idols were broken into pieces that were consumed by the faithful." Nowadays, in Mexico, the seeds are pasted together into a more innocent treat whose genericized name means "happiness"; this version (2 oz., $1.95) employs honey as well as brown sugar and a notable dose of lime juice. Alas for the Aztecs' old enemies, alegría for you and me.
Mexico Lindo is home to a wider variety of music, videos, and knickknacks than food, but there's a good selection of bargain sweets at the counter. Also shown: Pulparindo, sal y chile (14 g., 35 cents), is a two-bite candy made from salted, spiced tamarind; also available in extra hot. A camote (cah-Mo-tay, $1) resembles an oversized roll of saltwater taffy whose namesake ingredient, sweet potato, is confected into a paste flavored with fruit, in this case guava.
Mexico Lindo Grocery
2265 Second Ave. (116th-117th Sts.), Manhattan
212-410-4728
