The color is just a trick of the light.
But there was no disguising the flavor of orange peel and cinnamon in this Mexican coffee ($1.50), a caffeinated brew and not the boozy drink of the same name. Orange flavor also figures in the citrus-marinated, slow-roasted pork called cochinita pibil, and remembering a swimmingly good version at La Cabañita, in San Francisco, I couldn't resist ordering this Yucateca dish (special, $12.95). Sadly, it was dryish; perhaps I shouldn't have expected better, ordering a coastal Mexican specialty at a restaurant named for landlocked Puebla.
That said, I remain intrigued by a menu heading that shares a page with enchiladas, quesadillas, fajitas, and alambres: Hawaiianos, in similar combinations.
Estrellita Poblana III
2328 Arthur Ave. (186th-Crescent Aves.)
718-220-7641
(one of several locations)
