"Torsu" is Cambodian for "struggle," an understandable tag for a restaurant that endured a years-long migration from Fort Greene to the Upper East Side, only to see that second location shutter as well. The owners don't seem fully at ease in a downsized business, judging by the bulk of the upright refrigerator they've hefted aboard.
The menu, too, is elaborate for a mobile operation. I chose simply: kuey toe tuek ($3.95), rice noodles and chicken with bean sprouts, lettuce, and preserved cabbage "immersed in our special soup base." Tweaked with scallions, roasted shallots, and garlic, essentially it's chicken soup — perhaps just the remedy on a bleak evening.
Cambodian Cuisine Torsu
This evening, on LaGuardia Pl. at West 4th St.; see Twitter for other locations
www.CambodianCuisineTorsu.com
