Home turf for the morning's Serie A match wasn't far south of the mark.
Roma were facing off against their local rival Lazio. In a small crowd peppered with Italian accents, many of the fellows had seated themselves in a sort of half-twist so they could watch the game, and call out an order to the counterman, without hardly turning to do either. After sidling to the counter myself, I saw that pride of place had been given to two varieties of torta al testo.
This flatbread native to Umbria, a landlocked region north of Rome, is traditionally prepared on a stone griddle, or testo, though nowadays often on a metal cookpan that goes by the same name. Torta al testo is sometimes served strictly as a bread, but like a Chinese sesame pancake, more often it's sliced endwise, and stuffed. At Enzo's the options were broccoli rabe and mozzarella, zinged with a few shreds of hot pepper (shown, $3 a slice) or, simply, prosciutto.
Enzo's Italian Fine Foods
231 Hope St. (opposite Rock Spring Rd.), Stamford, Connecticut
203-406-9645
www.EnzoItalianFineFood.com
Weekdays till 6:00, weekends only through lunchtime
