I'm still a novice regarding pan, or paan, which describes a number of South and Southeast Asian quids wrapped in a betel leaf.
By amusing a stallkeeper and accepting a taste at Saigon's Cho Ben Thanh, I learned several years ago that the bitter, stimulative variety that features areca nuts and paste is not for me. Another major variety employs tobacco; I don't chew.
Sweet paan, I'll consider. Some venues prepare it in advance — perhaps you've seen flattened foil-wrapped packets in the fridge — but this Bangladeshi joint sells fresh paan, made to order. Mine included saffron paste, gulkand (or rose-petal preserve), mango, coconut, sweetened multicolor fennel seeds, and a prepackaged masala of spices — everything that the preceding customer had asked for except one ingredient that the paanwala insisted was "no good for you," over my objections.
The dim premises, and the handful of solo diners silently watching a midafternoon drama on the flatscreen, did not encourage photos, so I can't show you the paan-making process. The finished bindle ($1.50) was bulky, perhaps intended to deliver good value but too large to fit comfortably between cheek and gum. Paan is gently chewed for its flavor, then usually expelled rather than swallowed. I'll spare you my photo of the exhausted wad.
Kebab Curry Halal Food (previously known as Geo Restaurant)
2165 Starling Ave. (Purdy St.-Castle Hill Ave.), Parkchester, Bronx
347-281-4981
