A cursory glance at the palette of pale and dark browns, brightened by an occasional flash of orange or green, might suggest that this restaurant's robust Northeast Chinese fare makes for a dreary evening. A closer look at the likes of cumin-speckled crispy lamb kidneys (shown), however, can't help but set your tastebuds a-tingle. If I could have provided an audio track, the clatter and buzz at our large communal table would have told a story of its own; as it is, you'll have to make do with a slideshow, and your imagination.
Golden Palace
140-09 Cherry Ave. (Kissena Blvd.-Union St.), Flushing, Queens
718-886-3113