The question arose midway through a superb chicken parmesan hero ($10) sporting strikingly fresh basil. (Many places don't bother with basil at all.) "Glass half-empty" prompted "parm half-eaten," but for what remained on the plate, a felicitous phrase proved elusive. The observation that did come to mind, when I picked up where I'd left off, was "chicken, still crispy."
Previously: a plump Italian combo ($10). Props, also, to any curator of homegrown products who stacks cans of Schaefer in the window. Call for one of those, and for extra peppers on your sandwich, and you'll be sitting pretty.
Torrisi Italian Specialties
250 Mulberry St. (Prince-Spring Sts.)
212-965-0955
www.PigInAHat.com