The superdense South Asian ice cream called kulfi ($2) can be flavored with cardamom, saffron, or pistachio, but at this Pakistani grocery it's offered simply in the basic malai, or cream, variety. The sole listed ingredients are milk, sugar, and khua (other transliterations include khoa, khoya, and khawa), made by cooking down milk to about one-fifth its original volume.
Khoa is an easy way to preserve milk in a hot climate. Ultimately it finds its way into many sweets, though this is the only one I know that's served cold, on a stick.
Lahori Grocery
122 Lexington Ave. (28th-29th Sts.), Manhattan
212-696-5200
