Underneath, mok pla has a fishy familiarity to certain other Southeast Asian steamed dishes.
It is, of course, Laotian kin to Cambodian ahmohk and Thai hor mok. This particular mok pla ($6.99), a loaf of steamed catfish veined with dill, green onion, and kaffir lime, was dryish rather than custardy. The better, perhaps, to call out the merits of the accompanying roasted tomato relish, jaew maak len. John Birdsall, whose review pointed me north to San Pablo, elaborates.
That Luang Kitchen
1614 23rd St. (Bush-Market Aves.), San Pablo, California
510-232-6265
(From an August 2011 visit)
