"Herring in an overcoat."
That's a poetic translation of selyodka pod shuboy ($3.32, at $3.99 per pound), a cool Russian salad that bedecks boned, skinned herring with beet, carrot, mayonnaise, onion, and egg (purportedly potato, too, though I didn't taste at the time). My photo doesn't do it justice, but try it on for size — you'll love how the layered look suits all seasons.
Also shown: a pickled apple ($1.10, at $2.99 per pound). Most of the color had leached from this gingergold without a corresponding addition of brine. It's likely that apples, which have not-so-permeable skins, require a vibrant pickling solution to transform their flavor. Gastronom Arkadia regularly offers a variety of pickled produce, including watermelon but, alas, no watermelon rind.
Gastronom Arkadia
1079 Brighton Beach Ave. (Brighton 12th-13th Sts.), Brighton Beach, Brooklyn
718-834-7709
