Onion rings and french fries were only scaffolding for my clam belly platter ($16.95); this was not unexpected. The shellfish themselves, however, tended toward firm and tight, a virtue for beach bodies but not for clam bellies.
Kelly's Roast Beef
410 Revere Beach Blvd. (near Oak Island St.), Revere, Massachusetts
781-284-9129
(One of several locations)
www.KellysRoastBeef.com
(From a summer 2009 visit)