A cookup, in the Caribbean, is an umbrella term for any number of one-pot concoctions. Cookup saltfish (about $4.50) is traditionally prepared with cod, though in light of the recent scarcity of that species, another white-fleshed fish is often substituted. (I didn't get the specifics.) A side order of some sort of carbohydrate is standard, both to get your day off to an energetic start — this is a breakfast dish — and to sop up cooking oils infiltrated with fishy essence.
At this Jamaican truck, the dumplings (50 cents each) serve admirably. They're simply fried dough, without filling, like oversized unsugared donut holes. I've enjoyed them straight up, too.
Sunrise Grill
Truck parked on Broadway between 166th and 167th Sts., Manhattan
Reportedly open weekdays only, early morning till late afternoon
