Eating In Translation

Magasin Wells Diner (M. Wells)

(This venue is closed, but its successor, M. Wells Dinette, is not far away.) It may have been the only diner in town with a copy of the Larousse Gastronomique behind the counter.

First Prize Pies

My instinct on visiting a pie stand is to seek out what's seasonal, but the springtime rhubarb frangipane was outshone by this well-brûléed s'mores pie (slice, $4). It's firm enough to be finger food, just like the campfire favorite.

First Prize Pies
646-338-6812
www.FirstPrizePies.com
At Smorgasburg, North 7th St. at the East River, Williamsburg, Brooklyn
Saturdays during the warmer months

Bibi Caribbean Kitchen

When prepared by a Guyanese baker, "pine tart" means pineapple tart ($1). When gently detached from a cookie sheet, still cooling on the stovetop, by Bibi — who also prepares a compact menu of savory chow — there's none better.

Bibi Caribbean Kitchen
114 Mallory Ave. (at Ege Ave.), Jersey City
201-433-5114

Blue Ribbon Cafe

Despite the name, the baseball-sized, breadcrumb-dusted Filipino rolls called pan de sal tend a little more toward sweet than salty. This one features a common filling, corned beef ($1.50).

Blue Ribbon Cafe
195 Mallory Ave. (Clendenny-Lexington Aves.), Jersey City
201-938-0838

Merchants Green Stamps

This frequent-shopper program was a smaller competitor of S&H Green Stamps, Plaid Stamps (awarded by A&P), and Gold Bond Stamps. Date of demise unknown.

Merchants Green Stamps
Surviving sign on Baldwin Ave. near Newark Ave., Jersey City

"Drink Coca-Cola"

This faded ad is all but hidden by the overgrowth of billboards, storefront signage, and traffic signals (click for a somewhat closer look).

"Drink Coca-Cola"
Seen from the vicinity of Tonnele Ave. and John F. Kennedy Blvd., Jersey City

Name This Shop

The shop around the corner — which, like the movie of that name, gave rise to a Manhattan remake — has a certain pre-war charm, owing in part to the celebrated size of its servings. Can you name this shop? (Please post your answer in the comments.)

Haylemon

(This venue is closed.) My young waiter pronounced the name of this old-school Chino-Latino restaurant "Hey leh-mun"; I like to imagine that his older colleague, who spoke Cantonese to the chef and Spanish and English to other customers, would have said "Eye leh-Moan." (Admittedly, for that pronunciation the spelling isn't quite right.) After the customary wonton noodles with duck sauce and this workaday roast pork chop suey ($8.95), the thought of flan, touted by a handwritten sign behind the counter, was uninspiring. Instead I took my check; with it came the fortune "Your home is a cheery place to live" in a cookie tasting of stale breakfast cereal.

Haylemon
2496 Elm Pl. (East Fordham Rd.-East 188th St.), Fordham, Bronx
718-295-2099

Queens Bazaar Food

(This venue is closed.) Even pistachio lovers may find their patience tested by shurdanak.

Steam Dumplings

(This venue is closed.) One specialty of the proprietors, who come from the inland Chinese province of Hubei, are dumplings that hold a delectable combo of pork, shrimp, and chive ($3.50 per dozen). The contents are hinted at, but not spelled out, by a Chinese-only, two-character description that promises "three fresh" — colloquially, "three treasures" — shorthand that is also employed at nearby White Bear for dumplings that feature pork, shrimp, and sea cucumber. The treasures depend on the dumpling maker; these are especially worthy of the name.

Steam Dumplings
Savoy Fusion food court (a.k.a. Savor Fusion, Savory Fusion, Maple Snacks), stall 1 (the rearmost)
42-01 Main St. (at Maple Ave.), Flushing, Queens