Superlative frita Cubana ($3.50), a piquant cousin to the hamburger featuring a loosely knit patty topped with grilled onions and a dense thatch of shoestring fries. These were properly crisp, the better to complement a moist, spicy patty made from beef, chorizo, and who knows what else. The patty was griddled with a sauce whose ingredients are likewise held secret by the chef-proprietor, El Mago. Call him The Magician, or call him The Wizard; either way, he's not telling.
El Mago de las Fritas
5828 S.W. 8th St. (S.W. 58th-S.W. 59th Aves.), Miami
305-266-8486
www.ElMagoDeLasFritas.com
(From an autumn 2012 visit)
