Mallawach pizza ($8.25) is not truly a pizza; it's a kosher dairy mashup of griddled flatbread and marinara with cheese, Yemeni Jewish and Italian-American. I would have done better to order my mallawach (mah-Lao-wahk) in the traditional presentation, undressed, with tomato sauce, salad, hardboiled egg, and feta on the side. There's little sense in smothering a hot flaky flatbread such as this.
Also shown: another application of ethnic idiom to classic carbohydrate, Cajun fries (small, $3.75).
Taam Mevorach
815 Ave. U (East 8th-East 9th Sts.), Gravesend, Brooklyn
718-336-3368
www.TaamMevorach.com
