(This venue is closed.) If the French name "With Spices" and the bouillabaisse-like abundance of this Malaysian soup aren't clues enough, the menu tells the tale: Aux Epices is the reincarnation of Franklin Station Cafe. That Tribeca establishment (1993-2008) served a seafood laksa that was surprisingly delicious, considering the recorded strains of accordion music on the afternoon of my visit, seven years ago.
My latest laksa (sans accordion, $12.95) might have been even better: Salmon, shellfish, and thick, square-cut noodles were generously heaped in an excellent spicy-coconutty gravy. Serious Eats, for whom this is a local hangout, has sampled additional entrees.
Also shown: bobo cha cha ($3). Like my favorite version from overseas, this dessert was not overly sweet. The coconut-milk base was laden with taro, sweet potato, tapioca, and more.
Aux Epices
221 Baxter St. (Hester-Canal Sts.), Manhattan
212-274-8585
