The chef at this month-old restaurant comes from Kuala Lumpur, but the fried rice-noodle dishes called chow kueh teow are modeled after the style of the owner's previous home, in Penang. This house special version ($7.95) conceals a fried goose egg. Renditions I've sampled in Malaysia usually make the egg more apparent, and the add-in comes from a chicken or, in deluxe cases, a duck.
Duck or goose, laid on top or hidden below, the egg was fine by me just as is. Another time, however, I'll cajole the staff into adding more chili paste while stir-frying — hot sauce on the side just isn't the same — and turning up the flame a bit, too.
CM Malaysian Restaurant
21 Division St. (Market St.-Bowery), Manhattan
212-226-8998
