This Polish diner was newish when Irene Sax profiled it for her Eats Beat column in 1997, and, except for the addition of a flatscreen television, little seems to have changed with the years. It's a walk-down, well-maintained if somewhat dim and drab, with an unhurried air. On my first visit, several couples and families had made it their destination for a late-afternoon meal.
Most were digging into plates as well-loaded as mine. While heavy, fatty soul food is in retreat at many Manhattan establishments — today often it co-stars with lighter fare — here in Greenpoint the Polish equivalent has hunkered down as resolutely as the decor. The sauerkraut that accompanied my golonka, or pork hocks ($7.75), contained mushrooms as well as bits of fried kielbasa. Potatoes, alas, were dry.
The pork itself was dryish when I returned one evening with friends; a swamp of plum sauce carried the day (special, $8.95). A shared plate of fried pierogies (not shown, $6) and one dining buddy's bigos, or hunter's stew ($7), got the best reception. His mashed potatoes were plenty moist, but we swabbed them in the plum sauce anyway.
Relax
68 Newell St. (Nassau-Driggs Aves.), Greenpoint, Brooklyn
718-389-1665
