Apart from somewhat soupy smoked pit beans (small side, $4), the textures in this DIY BBQ sampler were great. The ample meat on the baby back ribs (half-rack, $15), for example, didn't fall off the bone but came free readily with a light pull, while the brisket had a dramatically craggy crust (shown in the second photo below, $25 per pound) that safeguarded its tender flesh. But the brisket was underseasoned; once I'd swabbed a piece in Hometown's "sticky sauce," I didn't want to do without.
Best over all was the smoked lamb belly ($24 per pound); even this could have used a touch of salt. Unfortunately, I arrived at the very tail end of sandwich time (weekend lunch only), so Hometown's lamb belly banh mi will have to keep.
Hometown Bar-B-Que
454 Van Brunt St. (at Reed St.), Red Hook, Brooklyn
347-294-4644
www.HometownBarBQue.com
Closed Monday
