The dwindling ranks of establishments that offer "comidas China y Criolla" generally serve one roster of food from the Orient and another from the Occident; the two combine only in name. Culinary traditions have intermarried, however, at decades-old Sabrosura. But don't call it "fusion." Over lunch at the restaurant's recently opened, much larger second location, my dining buddy and I noted that the menu disdains that label for the initialism "ABCDE" — American Born Chinese Dominican Eatery.
Of our two rice plates, locrio ($10.75) was the more traditional. It may very well be a New World descendent of paella, but it was heavy in typical Dominican fashion with shrimp, chicken, and especially chorizo. A second, more winning dish ($8.95), featuring fried rice with shredded beef and decorated with avocado and fried plantain, better exemplified the felicitous marriage of cuisines. Much of our locrio turned into leftovers, but we scraped our plate clean of that chofan de ropa vieja.
Sabrosura
Since 2013 at 1808 Westchester Ave. (Beach-Taylor Aves.), Soundview, Bronx
718-502-9878
www.Sabrosura2.com
Since 1982 at 1200 Castle Hill Ave. (at Gleason Ave.), Unionport, Bronx
718-597-1344
www.SabrosuraRestaurant.com
