Buffet sampler ($4.99 per pound, without churrasco): okra, chicken rolled around spinach and rice, and feijão tropeiro. In their original form these "cattleman's beans" provided sustenance during long horseback expeditions; nowadays the basic combo of beans, toasted manioc flour, and nubbins of bacon or sausage are often enhanced, as here, by bits of fried egg and greens, perhaps collards.
Villa Brazil Cafe Grill
43-16 34th Ave. (43rd-44th Sts.), Astoria, Queens
917-396-4087
www.VillaBrasilCafe.com
