The classic version of Pepe's celebrated white clam pizza relies principally on garlic and olive oil, as well as oregano and grated cheese, to coax out extra shellfish flavor. A mozzarella-laden version is available, but frowned on; tomato sauce is out of the question, hence the designation "white" clam. When one member of our pizza-crawl crew insisted on bacon, all sorts of permutations presented themselves. The most concise solution: half bacon with mozzarella (shown above), half white clam, with garlic and olive oil, and more bacon (shown below; large, $25.75).
Also shown, from a previous visit: a small white clam pie (currently $12.75). The slightly irregular shape is typical of New Haven pizzas, which often are oblong rather than round; the camera angle exaggerates this only a little. If you enjoy the chewy crust at Pepe's, the proportions are perfect.
Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana
157 Wooster St. (Depalma Ct.-Chestnut St.), New Haven, Connecticut
203-865-5762
(One of many locations)
www.PepesPizzeria.com
