(This venue is closed.) Black-eyed-pea cakes were too prim.
Combined, these three cocktail-sized acarajés (Ah-cah-rah-Zhays, at lunch, $6) weren't as hefty as a single acarajé at Point Brazil. And despite the spicy vatapá, a mash typically fattened with palm oil and coconut milk and here flavored with fish and dried shrimp, there was little threat of the finger-licking messiness that helps account for the acarajé's popularity on the streets of Brazil. Except, that is, when I pulled the tails off the shrimp, which to their credit were sauteed perfectly.
Also shown: lunch specials ($8 each) featuring pork tenderloin and spicy shrimp, also nicely sauteed; a side of black beans.
Malagueta
25-35 36th Ave. (at 28th St.), Astoria, Queens
718-937-4821
www.MalaguetaNY.com
Closed Monday
