Clam pie, cheeseless, featuring shucked-to-order littlenecks (medium, $30.50). With other toppings I'd be inclined to order well-done, but why risk overcooking and toughening the shellfish or drying out the juices that soak into the crust? The house got this one just right. Two small slices remained only because this was the fourth of four stops on a pizza crawl; I understand that leftover clam pie, too, is quite good.
Also shown: Iron Brew, the most enigmatic of the Foxon Park sodas found in all respectable New Haven-area pizzerias. Its flavor, the company's website acknowledges, is "tough to describe. ... Do you like Kola? Do you like Cream? Do you like Root Beer? Then Iron Brew is the drink for you!" I preferred the white birch flavor, and its hints of wintergreen, which we paired with another pizza earlier in the day.
Zuppardi's Apizza
179 Union Ave. (Main-Brown Sts.), West Haven, Connecticut
203-934-1949
www.ZuppardisApizza.com
Closed Monday
