Double good fortune.
A single mail-carrier pushcart is a welcome sign; a pair, parked out front, is even better. Big Hing Wong is an archetypal "third place," where regulars can reliably find one another and pass a little time without the obligations of home or office. Food and drink, such as stewed beef brisket and tendon lo mein ($6), nai huang bao (three for $2.25), and a glass of hot tea, are less important in themselves than as accessories to playful banter. In such a setting, the nai huang bao — "milk yellow buns" in which the color denotes egg yolk, an ingredient in the sticky filling — are best nibbled. Treat them as gobstoppers, and you won't be able to hold up your end of the conversation.
Delight Wong (formerly known as Big Hing Wong)
300 Grand St. (Eldridge-Allen Sts.), Manhattan
212-925-1662
www.BigHingWong.com
