For sandwich do-it-yourselfers, Liebman's offers cold cut platters accompanied by potato salad, cole slaw, pickles, and rye. This assorted platter ($21.95, including a $2 surcharge for the meat in the center, presumably for substance and not style) was of uneven appeal. It's best to pass up the corned beef and pastrami in favor of the tongue, here evocative of a Magen David, albeit with two points too many.
Also shown, both in side view: a slice of stuffed derma (two for $7.95), a.k.a. kishka, which my dining buddies proclaimed insufficiently schmaltzy; a very puffy potato pancake ($4.50).
Liebman's Delicatessen
552 West 235th St. (Johnson-Oxford Aves.), Riverdale, Bronx
718-548-4534
www.LiebmansDeli.com