Mapo is strictly charcoal, an aroma that greets you at the door, settles in with you at the table, and lingers even after you hit the street. It also imparts a smoky flavor to kalbi, which for Mapo's best, namesake version is made from marinated, deboned beef ribs. To serve: Tear free a piece of lettuce leaf and smear on ruddy bean paste; perhaps add some garlic, hot green pepper, or marinated onion; tuck in a piece of grilled kalbi, wrap the lettuce tight, and pop it in your mouth, whole. Assembling a mouthful of just the right size may take some practice; this is a good place to work on your kalbi skills.
Panchan, offered here in the usual abundance of small bowls, also include an enticing larger dish of grilled, creamed corn. Like all the others, it, too, will be replenished on request. My favorite panchan (one of them, at least) remains the jelly-like dotori mook. Also shown, one for the road: Yakult, a probiotic yogurt digestif.
Mapo Korean BBQ
149-24 41st Ave. (at 149th St.), Murray Hill, Queens
718-886-8292
www.MapoBBQ.com