When topping a karisik pide (Kar-uh-Sheek Pea-day), the "mixed" version of this elongated Turkish flatbread, some bakers mix the toppings promiscuously along the length of the pide, so each bite offers a little of everything.
Another approach, favored by the baker at Truva, is to apportion the toppings — seasoned ground lamb, spinach, potato, and soujouk, all anchored where need be by kashkar cheese — into individual sections that follow the party-cut lines. Think of it as a pide sampler ($12.50). It's good, though I prefer the thicker, chewier crust at Mangal Kebab.
Also: warm bread for scooping up a less-than-garlickly eggplant salad ($6.25); juicy kofte (small, $8.75), lamb "meatballs" that often as not are flattened into patties, such as the ones shown below. Outdoor seating, behind the restaurant, is in the works.
Truva Cafe & Grill
22-41 31st St. (23rd Ave.-Ditmars Blvd.), Astoria, Queens
718-932-6400
www.TruvaNY.com
