The burger ($18) at first seems too precious. Want fries? That's extra. But approach it edgewise and you'll find that the patty has plenty of heft; take a juicy bite and you'll marvel at its richness. Credit a blend of dry-aged chuck and ample portions of suet and bone marrow. Counterpoints: red onion, cheddar, and a trio of housemade pickles (included). The least familiar is fennel.
The NoMad Bar
10 West 28th St. (Broadway-Fifth Ave.), Manhattan
347-472-5660
www.TheNoMadHotel.com/#!/dining /menus/the-nomad-bar
