You're unlikely to encounter mustard oil, which hums through many Bangladeshi dishes like low-wattage horseradish, at this brand-new business from the owner of Neerob. The menu is geared toward a general audience, and the South Asian touches are subtle. Note the raw onion, for example, in the salad that accompanied a lip-smackingly grilled chicken sandwich (comped for me).
Only a handful of items — "lollipop" chicken, a whole fried fish, and a box of "Desi spicy" chicken wings (with biscuits!) — hinted at the exotic when Packsun first opened. Since then the restaurant has expanded its South Asian repertoire, but, if you desire truly to be transported by the cuisine of Bangladesh, Neerob awaits you again, only a short walk away.
Packsun Halal Chicken
2160 Westchester Ave. (Castle Hill-Olmstead Aves.), Unionport, Bronx
718-822-8777
