The name of this cheeseburger gives a nod to 10454, a zip code in the South Bronx, in a neighborhood (some say it's part of Mott Haven, other insist Port Morris) that's chock-a-block with older industrial buildings. You don't need to travel far to find an auto-repair shop, if need be, or very good Mexican food, if a mole Oaxaqueño would hit the spot. Just outside the restaurant is well-traveled roadway that leads to an on-ramp, and to a bridge that can take you out of the Bronx and into Manhattan — or from Manhattan to the converted piano factory that's now home to Charlies.
Consider this juicy half-pound of grass-fed beef, well-dressed with bacon, cheddar, grilled onions, and sherry jam, and clamped in a crisply toasted seeded bun; perhaps that mole can wait for another night. 454 cheddar burger ($15, dinner only).
Charlies Bar & Kitchen
112 Lincoln Ave. (at Bruckner Blvd.), Mott Haven (or maybe it's Port Morris), Bronx
718-684-2338
www.CharliesBarKitchen.com
