Here's an underappreciated hallmark of the sandwich maker's craft: a hollowed-out loaf. For some sandwiches, the crumb is carved away as a matter of course; for others, your counterman (rarely, counterwoman) might do this on request. In the case of my caponata ($6.50), hollowing out the roll not only raised the ratio of filling to bread, it also cradled a messy Sicilian eggplant salad in the equivalent of a crusty, sesame-seeded bread bowl.
Previously: Pasta con sarde sports a thick sauce flavored by fennel, pine nuts, and sardines (for this rendition, possibly both fresh sardines and salted anchovies) and, traditionally, a dressing of finely ground, toasted breadcrumbs. Suggested beverage pairing: Manhattan Special espresso coffee soda. At bottom, the photo of the restaurant was taken on the afternoon of my pasta lunch, a number of years ago; both Joe's and the nearby Harold's Pharmacy have since freshened their signage.
Joe's of Avenue U
287 Avenue U (McDonald Ave.-Lake St.), Gravesend, Brooklyn
718-449-9285
www.Facebook.com/Joes-Of-Avenue-U-115168725182994
